| A compact, but excellent crag. Home to probably the best sport routes on the island. The rock is a hard limestone, reaching heights of 28m. The crag is split into several sectors and in such a way that it is always possible to climb in the shade. |
| Directions: | To find the crag, follow the B6 heading east from Pafos. About 14km east of Pafos, take the F616 road northwards situated just east of the AsproKemmos dam (signposted Mamonia, Agios Georgios, Agios Nikolaos). Continue on this road following the line of the Dhiarizos river for 10km. Continue through Agios Georgios and for another 4km, passing the Extreme View cafe. The crag becomes visible a few hundred metres further as the road drops down. Obvious parking area on the left. |
| Aspect: | Faces all directions. Always something in the shade (or the sun). |
| Notes: | Great all year round crag. Takes a day or so to dry out after sustained rain (rare). Busy (by Cyprus standards) at weekends and holidays during the Spring and Autumn. The Extreme View Cafe, located 1 km back up the road to Pafos, is highly recommended. |
| Route Summary: | 26 sport (4 to 7b) |
| Route Profile: | 4 2 5a 6 5b 2 5c 1 6a 1 6a+ 2 6b 2 6b+ 2 6c 1 6c+ 3 7a 3 7b 1 |
1 <Unnamed> F4 16m
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| Slightly contrived route up the crack on left side of the crag. Better done as a moderate trad climb starting at the base of the crack proper. |
2 Kokhylaki F4 16m
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| Tricky start leads to pleasant face climbing. |
3 Oceanis F5a 16m
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| Committing start proves to be the crux. |
4 Tarantoula F5a 16m
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| Nice and easy until the final bolt, whereupon watch out for the sting of the tarantula. |
5 Katsufis F5b 16m
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| Difficult start leads to easier ground. |
6 Monopati tou nerou F5a 18m
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| More great face climbing, with well protected crux at mid height. |
7 Parthena F5c 18m
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| Classic of the slab area. Overcome the crux at two thirds height via finger jams and sketchy feet placements. |
8 Khoros tis Siopis F5a 18m
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| Climb the obvious flake (or start direct for 5b) then launch out up and left. Bulge at the top is easier than it looks. |
9 Molyvenia Dhiathesi F5b 17m
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| Another nice slab route - climb straight up taking the bulge either left or right. |
10 Apiasti Elevtheria F5a 17m
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| Easy climbing until a featureless lozenge shape is reached. This can prove difficult for the short. |
11 Elevthero Pnevma F5a 17m
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| Climb up the initial flake/crack, move slightly right to below a small bulge at half height. Either take this direct (harder) or make a nice traverse left, up, then back right. Continue to the top with ease. The next routes are on the opposite side to the easy slab area. The routes here are steeper with the occasional overhanging section. They get the shade from around 13:00 onwards, and make this wall a great location during the summer in the afternoon. |
12 Taxidhi mualou F6c+ 13m
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13 Apondes fili F7b 22m
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14 Aetofolia F6b 22m
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| Excellent route with several hard sections. Leave something in the tank for the tuffa at the top. |
15 Kalitechnis F6a 22m
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| Another excellent route and the easiest of the ones on this wall. The crux is between the third and fourth bolts and is quite technical. |
16 Mitsaki F7a 24m
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17 Guru F6c+ 23m
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| Excellent route on positive holds with a crux high up. Slightly easier crux than its similarly graded neighbour Mageia, but more sustained. |
18 Mageia F6c+ 24m
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| An oustanding route - contender for best in Cyprus. Varied and takes the one obvious line on this wall. The first half is straight forward, but with nice moves. The technical crux is the slightly overhanging and blank wall above, split by the narrowest of cracks. This is followed by powerful moves over an overhang, followed by thankfully easier climbing to the top. |
19 Kipseli F6c 23m
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| Takes the wall close to the beehive - take care if they are active! |
20 Microcosmos F7a 26m
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The next four routes are on the north edge of the crag. They get the shade until mid-afternoon, which makes them a good morning location during the summer. |
21 Kavouras F6a+ 13m
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| Another superb route. The bulge at halfway is quite powerful and feels surprisingly committing for a sports route. |
22 Kavourina F6b 13m
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| Yet another classic. A delicate and sustained crimp-fest. |
23 Epea Pteroenda F6b+ 15m
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| Even better than the previous two. Another varied route. |
24 Esieksiksi F7a 13m
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| Something of a dissappointment after the previous three. The next two routes are on the south wall next to the road. They are in the shade until around mid-day. |
25 Harakiri F6a+ 28m
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| A stonking route. Tricky start leads up to brilliant flake and crack system. Finish up a short steep wall which has a bit of a sting in the tale. A classic. A 60m rope is just sufficient. |
26 Midheia F6b+ 25m
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| Not as good as it looks. Very sharp in parts, which combined with its steepness, makes care with hand placements essential. |